We arose this morning and found ourselves still at anchor. I went on deck and washed myself (we are to get fresh water until we reach Plymouth, after that it seems we have to take salt water. We are all supplied with Marine Soap for that purpose.) After we had got that done and our beds rolled up (we smooth them out first then roll them up, mattress and all, then put on a strap with a buckle round them to keep them together) it was then time for breakfast which we did ample justice to. It consisted of a large tin full of coffee, bread and butter. Then came my portion of the work. My mate and I got stripped and our shirt sleeves tucked up to our shoulders. I got a pail and some hot water and then commenced in earnest. I did the washing part, my mate the drying. We were very awkward at first but after a little while and exercising a little patience we managed it. Everyone went to what he thought proper to bask in the sun and watch the numerous vessels going up and down or to his books of which a good many as well as myself seemed well supplied. About 2 o'clock dinner was served. Pork, cabbages and potatoes were the order of the day. Our dishes were all of tin, and each man got a large mug and a teaspoon for his coffer or tea, a shallow plate, a fork, a knife and a tablespoon for his dinner... besides a tin for sugar, one for butter, one for salt, one for mustard and a pepper box ... a barrel for bread, one for water, a large triple tin for holding broth, beef and potatoes, a basin for washing ourselves in, and a large slop pail. These last being for the whole mess. So I think if we were once in right working order we will be pretty comfortable. I disliked the washing of the dinner things worst of all. They were so very greasy and our water was so very limited. However we did manage to get through it also. In the afternoon our Captain came on board together with the Inspector. Everything being satisfactory we once more got under weigh in tow of the steam tug about 6 o'clock for the first stage of our journey When we got down a little bit we passed a great many pleasure boats well loaded with passengers (I was informed that it was a Government Holiday in honour of our Queen's Birthday). There was a great deal of cheering among them some of their Bands playing very appropriate tunes such as 'The Emigrant's Farewell', 'Auld Lang Syne' and others. Soon after we went below and had a song and some music from a Melodian(there seems to be a good many musicians amongst us) then the most of us 'turned in’ for the night.
This morning after breakfast
we had a new task imposed upon us in the shape of scrubbing out our apartment. There
was a good deal of
grumbling by some of the malcontents for none of us were aware we would have it to do, however, we had to
submit. We were supplied with brushes brooms & co. not forgetting a bricklike
affair they called a Holystone and which we had to rub back and forward on the planks to take off the superfluous pitch. Well we got ourselves with a soft fatty sort of a
substance they called soap and 2 or 3 pails of water, then set to it in earnest... there was one from every mess (each to take turn about) and
his duty was to scrub the place occupied by his mess. We scrubbed it all over first with a stiff
broom soap and water, then got a long handled scrubbing brush with a piece of
India rubber nailed on it to act as a scraper. We scrubbed it well with that brush then applied the
scraper. With it we scraped it all to one place then
dried it with a mop. It is far from being white yet but there is a decided improvement. In the
course of a week or two I think we will have it tolerably clean as we have got to do it twice a week. There has been a
pretty stiff breeze today but still dead ahead, it has had the effect of keeping all the girls below with the exception of two, who appeared splendid sailors. I do hope the fair ones are not sick, but as yet there is no
means of knowing, for they are so kept under by their Matron... A very hard old lady who appears to think it would be an offence
punishable with death for any of us to speak to them. I am afraid she will have enough to do keeping them under when
she has her full complement. We passed close to the
Wednesday 3rd
We have made very little progress today. In the morning we reached a place called Start Point then took a long tack away out to sea and in the evening came back almost to the very same spot which was very disheartening indeed. We are all very tired beating about the Channel. The monotony was only relived by the number of Fishing Smacks which we were continually passing. They were engaged in their daily occupation of trawling for fish, and very large and fine boats some of them seemed. We always got a cheer or a wave of a 'Souwester' from their hardy crews as we passed. Some of the sailors say we may have to knock about the Channel all the week yet as the winds are so fickle here which is a very poor prospect.
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This moming I awoke and
found the ship ralling and pitching very much which made me feel that the sooner I was up on deck the better which I did and
felt better of the fresh air. I took my breakfast on deck too but I did not
require much. About 11 o'clock the bell rang for Service which is to be held
every Sunday. I don't think it was largely attended. I did not go by myself for
I felt that I could not even read a book. We passed two ships, one an Englishman
the other a Yankee which our Captain signalled, but as we were not allowed
on the Poop (that being the place allotted to the girls), we did not have an
opportunity of knowing what the conversation was. About midday the wind
freshened and we were running along at a splendid rate with the wind on our
quarter which I fancy IS her beat selling
point. At twelve the Captain took observations and found we had covered a
distance of 192 miles. In the evening the sailors told me we were crossing the
mouth of the famous
Tuesday 9th
I got up quite refreshed and
felt as ready for breakfast as ever 1 did and which I did ample justice to. I
flatter myself I have got over all my sickness now. On looking over the ship's
side I was surprised to see a very large shoal of porpoises, some of which
appeared to be about 6 or 7 feet long. They were vary beautiful swimming along a
foot or
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This morning broke on us much the same as the most we have seen… indeed there is such similarity between each day both as regards our work and the weather too, that it would grow very monotonous were it not for our books, and an occasional wink or a smile of recognition from the Ladies. For although their old Matron looks very sharp after them, yet they do sometimes find an opportunity to give us a nod. They say the stolen waters are sweet. I believe it is actually so in this case. for we all enjoy a wink on the sly knowing that they are kept so much under restraint. The wind has shifted again to our quarter that is to our right rear but is still so very light, it allows us however to take advantage of some extra sails which they have placed on the end of the Fore Yard Arm, so we are going along wonderful. We have traversed 134 miles today. In the evening after dark we had a grand display of fireworks consisting of Blue Lights which burned with an intense brilliancy, and Rockets that mounted beautifully into the air and then exploded. They were used as signals to our antagonist who was still in his accustomed place abreast of us and were answered by him in the same manner. They looked very beautiful in the darkness which surrounded us.
Thursday 18th
This morning a rather curious circumstance happened in the shape of a Birth and a Death, both about the very same hour. The bereaved parents were Irish, the child about 9 months old being their first born, died about half past one. At 11 the bell tolled for its burial, the body having been sewed up in sailcloth and loaded at the feet was placed upon a board projecting over the ship's side and held by a man at one end in a slanting position. It was then covered over by the Union Jack. The Captain read over the impressive Sea Burial service in the middle of which at a given signal it was consigned to the deep. A feeling of awe spread over us all as we heard the dull plunge for we knew that It was shut from our view forever. At 12 it was found we were in Lat 21º 58º N. Long 23º 5’W. Distance travelled 140 miles for the 24 hours so that we are now fairly within the Tropics, and indeed had it not been that we have been favored with a fine cool breeze from the north, we would feel it for the sun is now nearly vertical. As it is, the pitch is already beginning to boil up between the seams. In the evening we had another strange visitor being a Flying Fish who I suppose having been hardly pressed by his natural enemies the Bonita, took to flight and flying very high cleared our bulwarks and came on board... I am afraid he found himself in the words of the old saying ''out of the frying pan into the fire", for one fellow who happened to notice him soon put an end to his existence. He was something of the shape of a herring about the body but had a flat spout and forehead and was 10 inches long, the wings being about 6. They look prettiest when flying in the water. |
After breakfast I had another performance to go through and a new one to me for I never had it to do before. It was in the shape of washing some of my linens. I got a chance of some fresh water and thinking it would be better to have as few dirty things as possible I took advantage of it. Persons don't know what it is to live until they leave home, for I am sure a year ago I never imagined I would have to do things I have been doing this last month. However I did get a commencement when I was a little boy. I used to see my Mother washing, the way she went at it came vividly to my mind and was a great help to me at this time. My materials were very limited all I could get for a tub was a little pail we washed ourselves in. However in process of time with a little elbow grease I did manage it and had them tolerably clean although the sailors laughed at me for being so long at it for they are all good washers. Towards evening the wind got very light and changeable, we are now in what the sailors call the Horse Latitudes, that is I understand between the Northeast and Southeast Trade Winds and where it is most subject to calms. The night was very clear and starry and very warm...we could see the Southern Cross quite distinctly right ahead.. the Pole Star also astern, getting very low. Down below it was excessively warm, the Thermometer stood at 94°. We spoke to the Doctor for a windsail to send a flow of air down, the married folks having two, and the young women one, but it seems we are not to get it in a hurry. A good many sleep on deck ... I have never done it...we lie sweating with nothing covering us but a sheet. Distance 174 miles.
Friday 26th
A great outcry arose today
against some of the Irish portion of the passengers in consequence of some of
them having been seen literally moving with live stock (lice). It is a God's
blessing that they mostly sleep beside each other and when on deck too they
always keep by themselves. It's almost laughable to see how studiously each of
us avoid them. I am very glad that in the square in
which I sleep, comprising 20 beds, the whole came on at
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July commenced on as beautiful a day as I could ever wish to behold, the sun rose most beautiful without a cloud on the sky a nice cool breeze blowing. I thought on home and remembered that my old comrades and shopmates were at this time enjoying themselves, it being the Summer Holidays. I wondered if they would have the same beautiful weather but I doubt it much. We have been very lucky having had an uninterrupted spell of good weather for the last five weeks. This afternoon another of our number is lost to us forever, she was a young Irish girl of about 21 years of age. She had been very bad for two or three days previous and at last succumbed about 5 o'clock and in about half an hour afterwards she was committed to the deep. It is awful to think how little ceremony there is, the breath is scarcely out before they are slung over... in this case it was even quicker than usual. They intended to sink her bed with her, but horrible to say it had not been loaded enough to sink all, for the body just gave a plunge and rose to the surface again. I was very glad it was dark when it happened for a good many did not know. She has left a brother on board. It will be a good thing if he never hears it. The sailors say it will sink as soon as the bed gets saturated Distance 178 miles.
Thursday 2nd
I have been thinking today,
now that we have got everything in working order, that we could be very
comfortable together if it was not for the dirty habits of some of our Irish neighbors. I don't mean to say they are all alike, there are some of them very nice clean fellows. I was
speaking to some of my mates that came on at
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We passed another ship which
turned out to be the "High Flyer", one that left
Sunday 12th
I was awakened
early by the rolling of the ship
which was throwing me first on the one side of my bunk and then on the other.
On getting on deck I could see there was a heavy sea running and the ship going
perhaps 9 knots. The waves were coming broadside on, which was the cause of her
rolling so much making it uncomfortable to walk on deck. At dinner time it was
making the pea soup fly about in all directions. Each had to collar his dish
and balance it according to the roll of the ship. We have begun to see numerous
traces of being near the Cape, in the shape of flocks of
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About 8 this morning the wind freshened to a regular gale, gradually stitch after stitch was taken off until there was nothing left but the Lower Main Topsail which was kept up to keep her head to the wind and here we lay almost as if at anchor (what the sailors term 'Hove to') with the waves now and again coming right over her like a sheet. (Indeed it was laughable to see the ignorance of some, who actually asked if she was at anchor. Such an idea, and us in a place where, if she was going down, I believe she would never reach the bottom). One great wave struck her amidships and knocked in a part of the bulwarks. I got drenched with one as I was going to the galley for our coffee (for it happened to be my turn to clean up and fetch the eatables). About midforenoon the sea was running very high and the wind still increasing. It caused the ship to roll so much that her lee gunwale was sometimes under water. Some of the women came on deck and sat down on a spare spar but were no sooner set down than the ship took a lurch and they were left sprawling on the deck among the water. One got herself severely hurt, another fainted and was carried down below where the rest soon followed. For a time the deck presented a scene of confusion, loose pieces of wood floating about and occasionally some luckless person found himself gliding on his back from one side of the ship to the other as she rolled back and forward. Down below things were even worse... tins were flying in all directions... and some of our water barrels got loose and were rolling about putting us in danger of getting our legs broken. Two or three of the forms got broken to pieces to lend variety to the scene. The front board of two of the beds was pulled off by some of them hanging on to save themselves, and the beds, and things they had in the bunks were sent flying on the floor. We got our dinner brought to the mouth of our hatch and served out in small quantities. About teatime it was at the worst. at least the sea was highest for it does not rise all at once like the wind, but gradually. Two of us went to the galley for Tea with a teapot each. We had no sooner got it than a sea struck her, and my companion was bundled into a corner and spilt half of it I managed to get down below without accident and was going to the table when a fellow came up against me, and down I went to the Leeside where I got all the tea about me. The lower deck was so slippery that it was scarcely possible to keep our feet without a hold. All the tea we could get was about half a cupful each. However we know that we have to be pleased with small mercies here. I went on deck to have a look of the scene again. I had often wished, while at home, to behold a gale at sea and now I have it gratified. Indeed it is a wild looking picture, the wind roaring and whistling through the rigging so that we can scarcely hear ourselves speaking the seabirds screaming as if delighted as they skimmed the surface daring the storm to its worst... while the waves rising like two rugged hills on each side of us as we lay in the trough, seemed as if they would engulf our light little craft. But she rose to them like a duck and as she was very light she took in comparatively little water... only occasionally an extra large wave would come on board. We all turned in early but not to get a sound sleep. Some in fact never slept the whole night the rolling was so great. I slept pretty well awakening now and again when she gave an extra lurch. Distance 202 miles. Lat 38:22 Long 20:4.
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On getting up this morning I found the wind still fresh, and us going along in fine style which gave us the prospect of a speedy landing, the Captain himself declaring that he expected to land in three weeks. The weather is now very cold. It takes all the walking we can get on the Fo’castle to keep our feet warm. Indeed we enjoy the walk very much, although it is sometimes under difficulties we get it, with the rolling of the ship and the Fo'castle being small, it is necessarily limited. Just what we used to term a fishermen's walk.. "three steps and a spit'. We sometimes got a flying shower of snow or sleet which was excessively cold but did not last long. In the evening the clouds cleared away and exposed to our view once more our welcome friend the Moon in all her beauty, and under her pale light I spent a pleasant hour or two talking to the man on the watch (which is kept of course on all night, and is relieved every two hours). and then turned in. Distance today 266 miles (566 miles?)... being the best run we have had all the voyage.
Saturday 25th
The wind has changed about a good deal which is not a good sign and was for some time almost right astern but towards evening it fell away altogether. I got a good laugh at some of the Englishmen in our mess today. They used to chaff and jeer at us for eating our oatmeal cakes, declaring they were not fit for pigs and that they would never taste them, but today they asked for a bit and after tasting it declared they would have their share after this. So we completely turned the tables on them and told them they should be more wary of what they said after this. After Tea it came on very thick, and foggy accompanied with a drizzling rain, just what I have heard termed a "Scotch Mist” very cold and disagreeable it was, it made us think more of our quarters down below which were tolerably warm, and where we spent a very happy night. Distance 198 miles.
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It being cloudy the Comet was not seen at all this morning. The wind about the same as yesterday I suppose, as we have now passed the Longitude of the Cape we have now got into the strong steady winds the sailors have been talking about. Towards midday it cleared off and the sun once more blazed forth, but what a difference from what it was a month ago... at that time we could scarcely bear it and was glad always to stand in the shade of the sails, but now when on deck we always try to be as much in the sun as possible, and even at that we stand shivering unless well covered. About sunset we had a very severe snow storm which lasted about half an hour... about 8 o'clock there was another of hail, accompanied with a very strong breeze of wind which in fact always more or less accompany these showers and are called snow squalls. I heard today that all the invalids are recovered again with the exception of one or two, and these are also doing well. I am much afraid we will have to lie for a week or two quarantine. Distance 492 miles. Lat 43:34. Long 32:53 E.
Thursday 3oth
Was a fine, clear, beautiful day so as I had plenty of warm clothes on I spent a good part of the day on the Fo'castle watching our good ship as she bounded over the undulating expanse of waters like a frightened race horse. Sometimes indeed she staggered as she plunged into a large wave and then away she swept again as if she kept all her pent up energies for another grand burst. The sight was splendid for she looked like a thing of life as she flapped her gigantic wings now and again. At other times when the sun answered I have watched for hours together, the beautiful rainbows caused by him sending his rays though the spray. It was a very imposing scene sometimes indeed they showed the colours as vivid as the brightest rainbow that I ever saw. They were seen to best advantage in the forenoon when the sun was shining bright and no broadside on to him. Distance 246 miles
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Early this morning the wife of a young Englishman gave birth to a dead child. All the other invalids are either better or recovering fast with the exception of one poor sailor who appears to me to be in a consumption and is very weak and broken down yet. It has been much clearer today, the wind still almost right astern and blowing pretty fresh so that we are all looking forward to our landing, expecting to reach our destination in less than a fortnight. I think the most of us don't care how soon, there are some can scarcely walk with 'chill blains’ which I have escaped myself as yet, by keeping my feet dry and as warm as possible. There are two or three, however, who don't care if we had to go as far again, being used I suppose, to rough living, confessing in fact that they were never fed better in their lives. Distance 376 miles.
Saturday 8th
Was very squally, more
especially after sunset, for at night they always blow stronger and are of
longer duration than in midday, and were so fierce sometimes that they actually
expected some of the sails to be blown away. We passed large quantities of sea
weed telling us as it did
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Found us still making good progress with the wind more on the quarter causing us to take in a little water now and again amidships, but which we have got quite accustomed to. I think some of us have got our sea-stomachs at last. I am only sorry we have been so long in getting them, but they say “its an ill wind that blows no one good” and in that case the birds would not have fared so well for we manage now to eat all our meat. I am astonished at the quantities of fat pork that go out of sight, for I never used to care a great deal for the fat, but now if any is left at dinner it is kept for tea and then quietly discussed... in fact if any one was to see us here he would think we had lost our appetites and found a horse's. Tonight at sunset we were once more gladdened by a sight of the new moon, it being 48 hours old. I have been told that it can be seen at sea after It has been 24 hours changed but although I have looked for it I have not had an opportunity of seeing it so soon, it being always cloudy. Second Mate sighted another whale at dinner. Distance 440.
Saturday 15th
Very early in the morning it blew very fierce, the waves striking her sides seemed as if a solid mass of two or three tons weight were thrown against her making her tremble from stem to stem, and then I could hear the swish of it as it rushed back and forward across the deck. I could also hear all hands called up to shorten sail, and in a short time she was stripped to her topsails. About 8 it fell a good deal, and sail was put on again. I was glad to see the Mate once more on his pins and on duty again. He is a regular old sea dog having weathered many a gale and having been a long time in this ship... he can handle and make her obey his will as if she were a thing of life. To tell the truth, I'd much rather see him on the poop than even the Captain, although he is a very nice man and a regular gentleman. Still, to my way of thinking there is more of the sailor in the Mate, at any rate, he has had more experience. This afternoon we had some soda presented us as a great favour and had a little put in a fruit cake, or as we call it, a dough I could scarcely believe the difference, it is so long since I tasted anything with soda in it, that I thought it was delicious. If we had only known what was before us, we might have brought two or three little things with us... trifling in themselves, yet would have made us relish our food a great deal more. We have been congratulating ourselves on our continued good health, but I am afraid our turn has come now two young fellows have been very ill. The young man who broke his collarbone is mending rapidly. Distance 232 miles.
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Have at last reached Australian waters having passed the longitude of Cape Leeuwin, the southwestern point of Australia, so that if all goes well we expect to see Adelaide about Friday or Saturday A nice breeze has sprung up from the Land which sent her dancing about merrily, Our ship being under a regular cloud of canvas. It reminds me very much of the weather we experienced in the Channel, the sea pretty smooth yet broken enough to send a shower of spray flying now and again over her bows. The northerly breeze, too, being comparatively warm... for unlike home the North wind here is warmest. It seems that two or three of the young girls have taken badly again…so the Doctor fearing that we are once more to be fever struck, compels us all take three times a day, a teaspoon of mixture which he says possesses the wonderful power of preventing us from taking fever. We have all submitted, thinking at any rate it will do us no harm. After sunset it looked pretty squally, the lightning flashing intensely, brilliant in the south... but before bedtime nothing unusual occurred. Distance 460 miles.
Tuesday 18th
We have already begun to see evidences of drawing near land, in the shape of numerous flocks of small birds called Quail, which the first time I saw them struck me as being very like the Flying Fishes we used to see when the sun was shining on them. They are remarkably quick in their movements and are generally in large flocks, sometimes I believe of two or three thousand. They actually appeared to me to be like Soldiers drilling... the one time they would be like as if marching in column, and then getting some sudden command they would break up into sections as if for skirmishing. Nothing could be more beautiful. I sometimes watch them for hours (for the weather is so genial now that we can once more sit and read on the Forecastle) and try if I can to pick out their commanders and officers. I saw a rather novel mode of cleaning sheepskins, they were tied to a rope, the other end of which was fastened to the Bowsprit and dragged through the water, the ship going through the water at 8 to 10 knots made them tolerably clean in two or three hours. Some of the lazy ones even tried to clean their clothes in the same manner but the experience was not altogether satisfactory. Distance 160 miles.
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The wind has chopped round until it is right ahead, which is very aggravating, as we may have to beat about here for another week yet, and us not 300 miles from Kangaroo Island (a large Island lying about 60 miles out from Adelaide and which we have to pass close by). Two men were chosen today to gather the subscription for the Baker, and in the evening a meeting was called… the majority of which voted that the baker should get the sum of $1:15:10 as it was not believed that the other had got the money stolen at all, and any who wished to befriend him could do so independent of this . He was then sent for and one of our number made some appropriate remarks and presented it to him, after which he made a suitable reply. He did indeed, poor fellow, appear to be very grateful. The married folks are, I believe, going to subscribe also. The night was very clear and beautiful, the moon shining very bright was so enticing that we spent an hour or two on the Fo’castle. A little before 10 the wind freshened, which caused them to take in the Royals, TopGallant sails, and take a reef in the Mainsail, as the spray was coming on board like to drench us, so we went below.
NOTES: by James David McLauchlan, Grandson.
The diary ends here at the entry on 9th August 1874, a few days before the ship went aground at Kirkcaldy (Beach) in the early hours of 24th August 1874.
The existence of the diary was not known until late in my Grandfather’s lifetime as he “didn't think anyone would be interested to read it!”.
When asked why the diary was not completed, my Grandfather naively explained that he “had run out of notebook paper”.
Notes by Ian Murray McLauchlan,
Great-grandson.
The news of the stranding of
the “City of
The diarist James Anderson McLauchlan’s style of phrasing and punctuation reflects English structure of his day.
To aid 21st Century readers, minor punctuation and rephrasing has been carried out by Ian McLauchlan and Dianne Todd (nee McLauchlan), Great Grandchildren to James A McLauchlan. The text has been digitised for ease of future reproduction from an earlier transcript by V. A. McLauchlan.